Private Seller vs Dealer: Where Should You Buy Your Used Car in 2025?

Introduction

One of the first decisions when buying a used car is whether to purchase from a private seller or a registered dealer. This choice significantly impacts your legal protection, price, warranty coverage, and recourse if things go wrong.

The trade-off is simple:

• Private sellers: 20-30% cheaper but almost zero legal protection
• Dealers: More expensive but strong Consumer Rights Act 2015 protection

UK market reality:

• 60% of used cars sold through dealers (franchised + independent)
• 40% sold privately (individuals, not businesses)
• Average saving buying privately: £1,500-3,000
• Average cost of undisclosed fault: £2,000-5,000

This comprehensive guide explains exactly what you get (and don't get) from each route, your legal rights, common scams, negotiation tactics, and how to make the right choice for your situation.

Bottom line: A £8.99 vehicle check is essential for BOTH private and dealer purchases—it reveals hidden history that sellers may not disclose (or even know about).

Private Seller vs Dealer: Quick Comparison

At a Glance:

What is a Private Seller?

Definition:

A private seller is an individual selling their own car—not as part of a business. They might advertise on:

• Facebook Marketplace
• Gumtree
• eBay Motors
• AutoTrader (private listings)
• Local classifieds

Key Characteristics:

✅ Selling own car (not trading) ✅ No VAT registered business ✅ No FCA regulation ✅ No business premises ✅ Usually meet at home address ✅ Cash or bank transfer only

Red Flag: Disguised Traders

Some "private sellers" are actually unlicensed traders pretending to be private to avoid legal obligations:

Warning signs:

• Multiple cars for sale on same phone number
• Meets you away from home (car parks)
• Professional-looking listings (studio photos, detailed specs)
• Vague about ownership ("selling for a friend")
• Car is freshly valeted/detailed (unusual for private)
• Multiple similar cars in recent history

Why it matters: If they're actually a trader, you have Consumer Rights Act protection even if they claim "private sale."

What is a Registered Dealer?

Definition:

A registered dealer is a business authorized to sell vehicles. Two main types:

1. Franchised Dealers (Official Brand Dealers)

Examples: BMW UK, Mercedes-Benz of Manchester, Toyota GB dealers

Characteristics:

• Sell specific manufacturer (e.g., only Ford)
• Official brand warranty available
• Highest prices (premium for brand trust)
• Strict manufacturer standards
• Approved used car schemes (e.g., BMW Approved Used)
• Full service facilities on-site

Pros:

• ✅ Maximum trust and accountability
• ✅ Manufacturer-backed warranties
• ✅ Expert knowledge of brand
• ✅ High preparation standards

Cons:

• ❌ Most expensive option (20-40% markup)
• ❌ Limited negotiation room
• ❌ May only stock own-brand cars

2. Independent Dealers

Examples: Local car supermarkets, independent garages, online dealers (Cazoo, Cinch)

Characteristics:

• Sell multiple brands
• Lower prices than franchised dealers
• Variable quality (some excellent, some poor)
• Warranty typically 3-6 months
• May or may not have service facilities

Pros:

• ✅ Better value than franchised dealers
• ✅ Consumer Rights Act protection
• ✅ Warranty included
• ✅ More negotiation room

Cons:

• ⚠️ Quality varies dramatically
• ⚠️ Less brand expertise
• ⚠️ Warranty may be limited
• ⚠️ Some are "back street" operations

FCA Registration

All dealers offering finance must be FCA registered (Financial Conduct Authority). Check the FCA register: register.fca.org.uk

If not FCA registered but offering finance = illegal operation, walk away.

Your Legal Rights: Private vs Dealer

Buying from Private Seller

Legal Framework: Sale of Goods Act 1979 (very limited)

Your Rights:

✅ "As Described": Car must match seller's description (if they say "2018 BMW 320d" it must be exactly that) ✅ Ownership: Seller must legally own the car (not stolen, no outstanding finance)

That's it. No other protections.

"Sold as Seen" Means:

• ❌ No warranty
• ❌ No right to return
• ❌ No right to repair
• ❌ No refund if it breaks down next day
• ❌ Buyer assumes all risk

Exception: If seller deliberately lied or concealed a fault they knew about, you MAY have legal claim under misrepresentation—but extremely difficult to prove.

Practical Reality: If you buy privately and the car is faulty, you've almost certainly lost your money.

Buying from Dealer

Legal Framework: Consumer Rights Act 2015 (strong protection)

Your Rights:

1. Goods Must Be "Satisfactory Quality"

What this means:

• Meets standard reasonable person would expect
• Considers: age, mileage, price
• Free from defects (unless specifically disclosed)

Example: £8,000 car with 60,000 miles should not have major mechanical failures shortly after purchase.

2. Goods Must Be "Fit for Purpose"

What this means:

• Car must be roadworthy and drivable
• Suitable for normal driving use
• Passes MOT (if 3+ years old)

3. Goods Must Be "As Described"

What this means:

• Matches advertisement (mileage, spec, history)
• If described as "full service history" it must have it
• If claimed "never damaged" it can't have been in accidents

Your Specific Rights:

First 30 Days (Short-Term Right to Reject):

• Full refund if faulty
• Don't need to give dealer chance to repair
• Must prove fault existed at purchase

First 6 Months:

• Fault assumed to exist at purchase (dealer must prove otherwise)
• Right to repair or replacement
• Right to refund if repair/replacement fails

After 6 Months:

• Still protected but YOU must prove fault existed at purchase
• Harder to claim, but still possible

Example: You buy car from dealer. 2 weeks later, engine fails. Dealer MUST give full refund or replace car (you choose).

Warranty Obligations

Dealer must provide:

• Minimum warranty period (typically 3 months, often 6-12 months)
• Warranty covers major mechanical/electrical faults
• Free repairs under warranty

Private seller:

• Zero warranty obligation
• Sold as-is

Price Comparison: How Much Can You Save?

Typical Price Differences:

Example 1: 2019 Volkswagen Golf 1.5 TSI, 30,000 miles

• Franchised VW dealer: £16,500
• Independent dealer: £14,500
• Private seller: £12,000
• Private saving: £4,500 (27%)

Example 2: 2017 BMW 320d M Sport, 55,000 miles

• Franchised BMW dealer: £18,000
• Independent dealer: £15,500
• Private seller: £13,500
• Private saving: £4,500 (25%)

Example 3: 2020 Ford Fiesta 1.0 Titanium, 18,000 miles

• Ford dealer: £12,500
• Independent dealer: £11,200
• Private seller: £9,800
• Private saving: £2,700 (22%)

Why is Private Cheaper?

Dealer costs built into price:

• £800-1,500: Preparation (service, valet, minor repairs)
• £300-600: Warranty provision
• £500-1,000: Dealer overhead (rent, staff, facilities)
• £800-2,000: Profit margin
• Total markup: £2,400-5,100

Private seller:

• Sells at market price
• No overhead costs
• No warranty to fund
• Motivated to sell quickly

Hidden Costs of Private Purchase:

If something goes wrong:

• £500-2,000: Repairs (no warranty)
• £200-400: Pre-purchase inspection you should have had
• £8.99: Vehicle check you should have run
• Potentially: Total loss if serious fault

Break-even calculation:

• Save £3,000 buying privately
• £1,500 repair bill in month 2
• Net saving: £1,500
• BUT dealer car would have been repaired free under warranty

Advantages of Buying from Private Seller

1. Lower Price (20-30% Saving)

Why it matters: £3,000-5,000 extra in your pocket for same car.

Best for: Cash buyers on tight budget, mechanically knowledgeable buyers who can assess condition.

2. Full Ownership History

Why it matters: Private seller can tell you exact history, issues, quirks of the car.

What you learn:

• Why they're selling
• What work was done
• Known issues to watch
• How car was used (motorway vs city)
• Original purchase details

Dealer: Only knows car since they acquired it (often days/weeks).

3. Better Negotiation Room

Why it matters: Private sellers more flexible on price.

Tactics:

• Point out faults found during inspection
• Offer cash/immediate sale
• Negotiate on service items (tyres due, service needed)

Typical discount: 5-15% off asking price

Dealer: Fixed margins, less room to negotiate (2-5% typical).

4. No Pressure Sales

Why it matters: Private sellers aren't trained salespeople.

Experience:

• No sales tactics
• No finance pushing
• No add-on sales (warranties, paint protection)
• Time to inspect properly

Dealer: Professional salespeople trained to close deals.

5. See Where Car Was Kept

Why it matters: Viewing at seller's home shows how car was treated.

Good signs:

• Garaged/covered parking
• Clean driveway (shows they care about property/possessions)
• Maintenance records organized
• Well-kept home (suggests car care)

6. Potentially Better Condition

Why it matters: Owner-kept cars often better maintained than dealer stock.

Reasons:

• Emotional attachment (their car, not stock)
• Long-term ownership (5+ years common)
• Regular servicing (not just pre-sale prep)
• Genuine low mileage (not dealer bought at auction)

Advantages of Buying from Dealer

1. Legal Protection (Consumer Rights Act)

Why it matters: If car is faulty, you have recourse.

Value: Worth £2,000-5,000+ if major fault discovered.

Example: Engine fails after 3 weeks. Private seller: tough luck (£3,000 repair). Dealer: free replacement or full refund.

2. Warranty Included

Why it matters: Major faults covered for 3-12 months.

Typical coverage:

• Engine
• Gearbox
• Steering
• Brakes
• Electrical systems

Value: £500-2,000 for 6-12 month warranty.

3. 30-Day Right to Reject

Why it matters: If car not as described or faulty, full refund within 30 days.

Example: Dealer said "full service history" but you discover it's incomplete. You get full refund, no questions.

4. Professional Preparation

Why it matters: Car serviced, valeted, safety-checked before sale.

Typical preparation:

• Oil and filter change
• Brake check
• Tyre check (replaced if under 3mm)
• Fluid top-ups
• Full valet
• Minor cosmetic repairs

Value: £300-800

5. Finance Options Available

Why it matters: Spread cost over 3-5 years.

Options:

• Hire Purchase (HP)
• Personal Contract Purchase (PCP)
• Personal loan arranged by dealer

Private seller: Cash only (or arrange own bank loan).

6. Part-Exchange Convenience

Why it matters: Sell your old car and buy new one in one transaction.

Benefits:

• No private sale hassle
• Immediate payment
• Tax/paperwork handled
• Potential saving (part-ex value offset against VAT)

Private seller: You must sell your car separately.

7. Approved Used Schemes (Franchised Dealers)

Why it matters: Manufacturer-backed quality standards.

Examples:

• BMW Approved Used
• Mercedes-Benz Certified
• Audi Approved Used
• Toyota Used Car Programme

Benefits:

• 12-24 month manufacturer warranty
• Roadside assistance
• Multi-point inspection (100-150 checks)
• Mileage/age criteria (typically under 7 years, under 80k miles)

Premium: 10-20% more than non-approved equivalent.

8. Easier Insurance

Why it matters: Some insurers offer discounts for dealer purchases.

Why: Lower fraud risk, better condition, verified history.

Saving: 5-10% premium discount (some insurers).

Disadvantages of Buying from Private Seller

1. Zero Consumer Protection

Risk: If car breaks down, you have no legal recourse.

Reality: "Sold as seen" means exactly that—all risk on you.

Cost: Average repair bill for undisclosed fault: £1,500-3,000.

2. No Warranty

Risk: Any fault = your cost to repair.

Common issues appearing after purchase:

• Head gasket failure: £800-1,500
• Turbo failure: £1,200-2,500
• Gearbox issues: £1,500-3,000
• Timing chain/belt: £400-1,200

Dealer: All covered under warranty.

3. Higher Fraud Risk

Reality: Private sales account for 65% of vehicle fraud cases.

Common scams:

• Clocked mileage (seller claims ignorance)
• Hidden finance (seller "didn't know")
• Stolen vehicle (fake documents)
• Category S/N not disclosed
• Flood damage concealed

Recourse: Seller often disappears, untraceable, no money to claim.

4. Unknown Service History

Risk: Seller may have no service records or incomplete history.

Issues:

• Timing belt may be overdue (engine damage risk)
• Oil changes skipped (engine wear)
• Major service items deferred
• Previous damage unreported

Dealer: Won't stock car without reasonable service history.

5. No Preparation

Risk: Buy car "as-is" with existing issues.

Common problems:

• Worn tyres (£200-400 replacement)
• Dirty interior (£100 valet)
• Minor faults not fixed
• Fluids low/dirty
• Battery near end of life

Dealer: All addressed before sale.

6. Difficult Financing

Reality: Banks less willing to lend for private purchases.

Why: Higher fraud risk, no dealer guarantee.

Options:

• Personal loan (higher APR than dealer finance)
• Credit card (expensive, not recommended)
• Cash (limits buyer pool if you're selling later)

7. Seller Motivation Unknown

Risk: Why are they really selling?

Possible reasons:

• ✅ Upgrading (genuine)
• ✅ Downsizing family (genuine)
• ❌ Expensive fault developing (they know engine/gearbox failing)
• ❌ Financial pressure (may accept stupidly low offer = red flag)
• ❌ Stolen car (need to sell quickly)

Dealer: Buys at auction/trade-in, motivated purely by profit (predictable).

Disadvantages of Buying from Dealer

1. Higher Price (20-30% Premium)

Cost: £2,000-5,000 more for same car.

Why: Dealer overhead, preparation, warranty provision, profit.

Impact: Smaller budget = older/higher mileage car than private equivalent.

2. Less Negotiation Room

Reality: Dealers work on fixed margins (typically 10-15%).

Typical discount: 2-5% of asking price.

Private: Can negotiate 10-20% off asking price.

3. Sales Pressure

Reality: Salespeople trained to close deals.

Tactics:

• "Another buyer viewing tomorrow"
• "This price expires today"
• "Finance options make it affordable"
• Add-on sales (extended warranty, paint protection, GAP insurance)

Pressure: Can rush decision you'd regret.

4. Finance Commission Bias

Reality: Salespeople earn commission on finance deals.

Result: Push finance even when cash is better for you.

Example: Offered PCP at 8.9% APR when personal loan available at 3.9%.

Always: Check independent finance options before accepting dealer finance.

5. Limited History Knowledge

Reality: Dealer only knows car since acquisition (days/weeks typically).

Gaps:

• How previous owner drove it
• Why previous owner sold it
• Quirks or known issues
• How long it sat unsold at auction

Private: Full ownership history from seller.

6. Potential Auction Cars

Reality: Many dealer cars bought at auction.

Risk: Auction cars sold for a reason (often problem vehicles).

Common auction stock:

• Ex-fleet (high mileage, hard use)
• Part-exchange rejects (dealers didn't want them)
• Category N write-offs (dealers buy cheap, sell on)
• High mileage (dealers freshen up, sell at "low mileage" price)

Ask: "Where did you buy this car?"

7. Preparation May Hide Issues

Reality: Valet, service, and cosmetics can disguise problems.

Examples:

• Engine flush hides oil leaks
• Thick oil hides worn engine (temporary)
• Undertray hides corrosion
• Valet hides poor maintenance
• Fresh MOT (with advisories ignored)

Private: See car as-is, warts and all.

Common Private Seller Scams

Scam 1: Clocked Mileage

How it works:

• Seller winds back mileage (or claims "didn't know" if challenged)
• Sell 120,000-mile car as 60,000 miles
• Charge £3,000-5,000 more

Protection:

• Run MOT history check (£8.99 Carhealth shows all recorded mileage)
• Check mileage progression (should be ~7,500 miles/year)
• Inspect wear (pedals, steering wheel, seat, gear knob)

Scam 2: Outstanding Finance Not Disclosed

How it works:

• Seller has £8,000 outstanding finance on car
• Sells for £10,000
• Finance company repossesses from you
• Seller keeps your £10,000

Protection:

• Run finance check before purchase (£8.99 Carhealth)
• Don't hand over money until finance cleared
• Get seller's settlement letter from finance company

Scam 3: Category S/N Not Disclosed

How it works:

• Car previously written off (accident damage)
• Seller "forgets" to mention
• Car worth 30% less than claimed

Protection:

• Run vehicle history check (£8.99 Carhealth)
• Check V5C issue date (recent = suspicious)
• Inspect for repair signs (paint overspray, mismatched panels)

Scam 4: "Sold on Behalf of Friend/Family"

How it works:

• Unlicensed trader poses as private seller
• Claims selling for relative/friend
• Avoids Consumer Rights Act obligations
• Actually runs illegal car flipping business

Protection:

• Insist on meeting registered keeper (check V5C)
• If "selling for someone else" demand they attend
• Check seller phone number online (multiple car ads = trader)

Scam 5: Test Drive Theft

How it works:

• "Buyer" test drives your car
• Never returns
• Uses fake ID and contact details

Protection (if you're selling):

• Hold buyer's car keys during test drive
• Photocopy driving license
• Accompany on test drive

Common Dealer Scams

Scam 1: Hidden Finance Commission

How it works:

• Dealer offers finance at 9.9% APR
• Tells you "best rate available"
• Actually earns 4% commission
• You could get 4.9% independently

Protection:

• Get independent finance quote before visiting dealer
• Compare rates at moneysupermarket.com or comparethemarket.com
• Negotiate finance rate (dealers have flexibility)

Scam 2: Add-On Sales Pressure

How it works:

• Paint protection: £400 (costs dealer £30)
• Fabric protection: £200 (costs dealer £15)
• GAP insurance: £600 (available online for £100)
• Extended warranty: £800 (dubious value)

Profit: £2,000 add-ons for dealer, minimal value to you.

Protection:

• Decline ALL add-ons at time of purchase
• Research independently after
• Buy GAP insurance online (90% cheaper)

Scam 3: "We'll Match Any Offer" (But Won't)

How it works:

• Dealer claims they'll match competitor prices
• You find car £1,000 cheaper elsewhere
• Dealer finds technicalities to avoid matching

Excuses:

• "Different spec"
• "Different condition"
• "That car has issues" (unverifiable claims)

Reality: Marketing gimmick, rarely honoured.

Scam 4: Part-Exchange Undervaluation

How it works:

• Dealer values your car at £5,000
• Real value: £7,000
• Offers you "great deal" on new car (inflated price to compensate)
• You think you got good trade-in, actually lost £2,000

Protection:

• Get independent valuation (Parkers, AutoTrader, We Buy Any Car)
• Sell privately if dealer offer is 20%+ below market
• Negotiate part-exchange separately from purchase price

Scam 5: Mileage Correction "Services"

How it works:

• Dealer buys high-mileage car at auction
• Pays £300 for "mileage correction" (illegal clocking)
• Sells as low mileage
• Claims ignorance if caught

Protection:

• Check MOT history (Carhealth £8.99)
• Ask for service stamps (should match mileage progression)
• Walk away if ANY inconsistency

How to Choose: Private vs Dealer Decision Matrix

Choose Private Seller If:

✅ Your budget is tight (need maximum value) ✅ You're mechanically knowledgeable (can assess condition) ✅ You're willing to accept risk (no warranty) ✅ You can afford repairs if needed (emergency fund) ✅ You're buying low-value car (under £5,000) ✅ You plan extensive checks (pre-purchase inspection, full vehicle check) ✅ You prefer negotiation flexibility ✅ You're patient (willing to view many cars)

Choose Dealer If:

✅ You want peace of mind (Consumer Rights Act protection) ✅ You need warranty coverage (can't afford surprise repairs) ✅ You're not mechanically knowledgeable ✅ You need finance options (PCP, HP) ✅ You want convenience (part-exchange, preparation) ✅ It's your only car (can't risk breakdown) ✅ You're buying higher-value car (£10,000+) ✅ You want maximum safety/accountability

Essential Checks for BOTH Private and Dealer

Don't skip these regardless of seller type:

1. Vehicle History Check (£8.99 Carhealth)

Shows:

• Outstanding finance
• Stolen status
• Insurance write-offs
• Mileage history (MOT records)
• Number of previous keepers
• Export/import history
• Scrapped status

Why for dealer too: Dealers may not know full history (auction purchases).

2. MOT History Check (Free)

Website: www.check-mot.service.gov.uk

Shows:

• Mileage at each test (spot clocking)
• Advisories (deferred maintenance)
• Failure reasons (recurring issues)

3. Test Drive

Check:

• Engine starts easily (no hesitation)
• No warning lights
• Smooth gearbox (no crunching)
• Straight-line driving (no pulling)
• Brakes effective (no pulsing/squealing)
• No unusual noises

4. Visual Inspection

Check:

• Panel gaps even (no accident damage)
• Paint consistent (no respray)
• Tyres legal tread (over 3mm ideal)
• No fluid leaks (check under car)
• Wheels undamaged
• Interior wear matches mileage

5. Documentation

Verify:

• V5C logbook (original, not photocopy)
• Service history (stamps/receipts)
• MOT certificate (if due soon)
• Owner's manual
• Spare keys (should have 2)

6. HPI/Carhealth Check

Even if dealer says "HPI clear"—run your own check. Dealer's check may be outdated or incomplete.

Negotiation Tactics

Private Seller Negotiation:

1. Research Market Value

• Check AutoTrader, Parkers, Glass's Guide
• Find 3-5 comparable cars
• Know fair price before viewing

2. Identify Faults

• Note every issue during inspection
• Cost repairs independently
• Use as negotiation leverage

Example:

• "Tyres need replacing (£300), service is overdue (£200), and there's an advisory for brake discs (£250). Can you reduce by £750?"

3. Offer Cash/Quick Sale

• "I can pay cash today if we agree £XXX"
• Private sellers motivated by instant sale

4. Be Willing to Walk

• Don't show desperation
• "I'll think about it" = powerful negotiation tool

Typical discount: 10-15% off asking price

Dealer Negotiation:

1. Visit End of Month

• Sales targets = more flexibility
• Managers authorized to discount

2. Get Competing Quotes

• Print similar cars from other dealers
• "X dealer has same car for £500 less"

3. Negotiate Part-Exchange Separately

• Agree purchase price first
• Then negotiate part-exchange value
• Prevents masking poor trade-in with "deal"

4. Decline Add-Ons

• No paint protection, fabric protection, extended warranty
• Buy GAP insurance independently (£100 vs £600)

5. Question Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) Fees

• Should be included in price
• If charged separately, negotiate removal

Typical discount: 3-5% off asking price

Red Flags: When to Walk Away

Private Seller Red Flags:

❌ Won't meet at home address (car park only) ❌ No V5C logbook ("it's in the post") ❌ Can't provide service history ❌ VIN numbers don't match ❌ Recent V5C issue date (under 3 months) ❌ Seller vague about ownership timeline ❌ Pushy/aggressive behavior ❌ Price too good to be true (30%+ below market) ❌ Multiple cars advertised on same number ❌ Won't allow inspection or test drive ❌ Outstanding finance found on check

Dealer Red Flags:

❌ Not FCA registered (check register.fca.org.uk) ❌ Poor online reviews (under 3 stars on Google) ❌ Pressure tactics ("offer expires today") ❌ Won't provide written quote ❌ Can't explain vehicle history ❌ Refuses independent inspection ❌ Add-on sales pushed aggressively ❌ Finance rates well above market (8%+ APR) ❌ "We'll match any price" (then won't) ❌ Dealer very recently established (under 1 year)

Conclusion

The choice between private seller and dealer depends entirely on your risk tolerance, budget, and mechanical knowledge.

Private sellers offer significant savings (20-30%) but almost zero legal protection—you're buying "as seen" with all risk on you. Best for experienced buyers with emergency repair funds.

Dealers provide Consumer Rights Act protection, warranties, and peace of mind, but you'll pay 20-30% more for the same car. Best for buyers wanting safety nets and convenience.

Key Takeaways:

1. Private = 20-30% cheaper but zero warranty/protection
2. Dealer = Consumer Rights Act protection (30-day rejection, 6-month fault assumption)
3. Both require vehicle checks (finance, stolen, write-off status)
4. Private fraud risk is 65% of total vehicle fraud
5. Dealer warranties typically 3-12 months (worth £500-2,000)
6. Negotiation room: Private (10-15%), Dealer (3-5%)
7. Finance available only from dealers (HP, PCP, loans)

Before ANY Purchase (Private or Dealer):

✅ Run comprehensive vehicle check (£8.99 Carhealth) ✅ Check MOT history (free DVSA website) ✅ Verify all VIN numbers match ✅ Inspect service history ✅ Test drive thoroughly ✅ Get independent inspection if unsure (£150-300) ✅ Check seller legitimacy (home address for private, FCA registration for dealers)

Don't gamble with £10,000+. A £8.99 check reveals hidden finance, stolen status, write-off history, and mileage fraud.

Visit carhealth.co.uk for instant vehicle checks covering finance, theft, write-offs, MOT history, and AI-powered fraud detection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can a private seller offer a warranty? A: Yes, but extremely rare. If offered, get it in writing with clear terms. Most private sales are "sold as seen" with no warranty.

Q: What if a dealer is selling "trade sale" or "sold as seen"? A: Illegal. Dealers CANNOT exclude Consumer Rights Act obligations. If they claim "trade sale" they're trying to avoid legal responsibilities—walk away and report to Trading Standards.

Q: Can I return a car bought from a private seller? A: No. Private sales have no cooling-off period or return rights. Once you buy, it's yours—even if it breaks down an hour later.

Q: How long is a dealer's legal warranty obligation? A: Minimum 3 months for cars under £5,000. Many dealers offer 6-12 months. Your Consumer Rights Act protection lasts 6 years (fault must have existed at purchase).

Q: What if a private seller is actually a trader in disguise? A: If you can prove they're a business (multiple sales, trade premises), they have dealer obligations under Consumer Rights Act. Collect evidence and contact Trading Standards.

Q: Should I buy from online dealers (Cazoo, Cinch)? A: Yes—full Consumer Rights Act protection applies. They offer 7-14 day returns, home delivery, and competitive prices. Check reviews first.

Q: Is "Cat N" acceptable from a private seller? A: If disclosed and priced appropriately (20-30% discount), yes. If NOT disclosed, it's misrepresentation—you may have legal claim.

Q: Can dealers sell cars with outstanding finance? A: No. Dealers must settle all finance before resale. If found, it's a serious breach—contact Trading Standards immediately.

Q: What if dealer goes bust after I buy the car? A: Warranty may be void, but Consumer Rights Act claims go against the BUSINESS (liquidators must honor). Finance agreements continue regardless.

Q: Should I buy the dealer's extended warranty? A: Usually no. They're expensive (£500-1,000+) and often exclude common faults. Buy independently or self-insure (save the money for repairs).