Should I Buy My Car Privately? The Honest Truth (UK 2025 Decision Guide)

Introduction

"Should I buy my car privately?" is one of the most common questions UK used car buyers ask—and for good reason. The decision can save you £2,000-£4,000 or cost you even more if things go wrong.

The brutal reality:

• Private sales are 25-30% cheaper than dealer prices
• But you get almost ZERO legal protection if the car is faulty
• 1 in 12 private sales involve undisclosed problems costing £1,500+ to fix
• Private buyers have no return rights—once you've paid, the car is yours (faults and all)

This guide gives you the honest truth about buying privately in 2025, including:

• When private buying makes sense (and when it's too risky)
• Legal protection you DO and DON'T have
• Real-world examples of private sales gone right and wrong
• Decision framework to help you choose
• Essential checks you MUST do before handing over cash

Bottom line: Private buying can save serious money for savvy buyers who do proper checks—but it's a minefield for the unprepared. A £3.99 Carhealth check is absolutely essential (and could save you £3,000+).

Quick Answer: Should You Buy Privately?

✅ YES - Buy Privately If:

• You're mechanically knowledgeable or have a trusted mechanic to inspect
• You can afford the risk of undisclosed faults (have £1,000-£2,000 emergency fund)
• You're willing to spend 4-6 hours on checks and inspection
• The car is under £8,000 (lower risk, bigger saving percentage)
• You need to maximize value and are happy trading protection for savings
• You can view at seller's home address (verification of ownership)
• Seller has full service history and all documentation

❌ NO - Buy From Dealer If:

• You're not car-savvy and can't spot mechanical issues
• You can't afford unexpected repair bills (need financial protection)
• You want peace of mind more than maximum savings
• The car is over £15,000 (higher risk justifies dealer protection)
• You need finance (dealers offer HP/PCP, private sellers don't)
• You value warranty coverage and return rights
• You're a first-time buyer (steep learning curve for private buying)

🤔 MAYBE - It Depends:

• Car is £8,000-£15,000 (savings significant but risk also material)
• You're somewhat knowledgeable but not expert-level
• Seller seems genuine but you need expert inspection
• You want to try private but hedge risk with professional pre-purchase inspection (£150-£250)

What "Buying Privately" Really Means

What You're Getting:

Advantages:

• ✅ Price: 25-30% cheaper than dealer equivalent (average £2,500 saving)
• ✅ Negotiation: More flexibility—seller just wants car gone
• ✅ Honest History: Genuine private sellers know car's quirks, maintenance, issues
• ✅ One Owner Transparency: You can ask direct questions about how car was used
• ✅ No Dealer Margin: Pay market value, not dealer markup

What You're Giving Up:

• ❌ Legal Protection: No Consumer Rights Act (only basic Sale of Goods Act)
• ❌ Warranty: Zero coverage—car sold "as seen"
• ❌ Return Rights: No 30-day rejection period
• ❌ Preparation: Car likely sold as-is, no service/repairs
• ❌ Recourse: If seller disappears, you have minimal legal options
• ❌ Finance Options: No HP/PCP available

Legal Protection Reality:

What You DO Have (Sale of Goods Act 1979):

• Car must be "as described"
• Car must belong to the seller (not stolen, no outstanding finance)
• Seller cannot lie about mileage, accident history, or major defects

What You DON'T Have:

• No implied warranty of quality
• No "fit for purpose" requirement
• No right to reject after collection
• No obligation for car to be roadworthy (beyond description)

Practical Reality: Proving a private seller lied is extremely difficult and costly. By the time you discover the problem, they've often spent your money. Legal action via small claims court takes 6-12 months and costs £100-£500 in fees.

The Real Savings: Private vs Dealer

Example 1: £5,000 Budget (Small Car)

2018 Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost, 60,000 miles

Dealer Price: £6,800

• Includes: 6-month warranty, service, valet, 14-day exchange
• Monthly payments available

Private Price: £5,200

• Sold as-seen, no warranty
• Owner has service history
• Saving: £1,600 (23.5%)

Risk Assessment: Low-Medium

• Common model, parts cheap (£300-£500 for typical repairs)
• Saving justifies risk for mechanically aware buyer

Example 2: £12,000 Budget (Family Car)

2019 Volkswagen Golf 1.5 TSI, 45,000 miles

Dealer Price: £15,500

• 12-month warranty, full dealer network support
• Serviced, new MOT, 30-day return rights

Private Price: £11,800

• Owner-maintained, one owner from new
• Full VW service history
• Saving: £3,700 (23.9%)

Risk Assessment: Medium

• Saving significant but so is exposure
• Recommend £150 pre-purchase inspection
• Potential DSG gearbox issues (£2,000-£3,500 if fails)

Example 3: £25,000 Budget (Premium Car)

2020 BMW 3 Series 320d, 35,000 miles

Dealer Price: £27,500

• BMW Approved Used: 2-year warranty, roadside assistance
• Comprehensive checks, certification

Private Price: £21,000

• Company car, full BMW service history
• Owner genuine, professional
• Saving: £6,500 (23.6%)

Risk Assessment: HIGH

• BMW parts expensive (repairs £800-£3,000)
• Diesel emissions systems (DPF, EGR) = £1,000-£2,500 if fail
• Timing chain risk (N47 engine)
• Recommendation: Only if you have £3,000+ repair buffer OR get comprehensive inspection

The Pattern:

Private savings are consistent at 23-28% regardless of price bracket. But absolute risk increases with price:

• £5k car: £1,200 risk exposure
• £12k car: £2,800 risk exposure
• £25k car: £5,750 risk exposure

Common Private Sale Scams (2025 Update)

Scam 1: Clocked Mileage (Most Common)

The Setup:

• Car advertised with "genuine low mileage" - 48,000 miles
• Price seems fair, not suspiciously cheap
• Seller friendly, answers questions

The Reality:

• True mileage: 112,000+ miles
• MOT history shows mileage was clocked in 2023
• Seller claims "didn't know" (legally dubious)

Financial Impact: £2,500-£4,500 overpaid (car worth much less)

How Common: 1 in 16 used cars are clocked (6.3% of market)

How to Protect Yourself:

1. Check MOT history FREE at check-mot.service.gov.uk
2. Run Carhealth check (£3.99) - AI detects clocking patterns
3. Inspect wear indicators (pedals, steering wheel, seats)
4. Walk away if ANY mileage discrepancy

Real Example: Sarah bought "52,000 mile" BMW 320d for £11,500. MOT history showed 97,000 miles in 2022, then "reset" to 51,000 in 2023. True value: £7,200. Loss: £4,300.

Scam 2: Outstanding Finance (Very Common)

The Setup:

• Car seems perfect, owner claims "paid cash"
• You hand over £8,000
• Drive car home, register in your name

The Reality (2-6 weeks later):

• Finance company contacts YOU
• Car still has £5,200 outstanding finance
• Finance company can LEGALLY REPOSSESS from you
• You lose the car AND your £8,000

How Common: 1 in 30 private sales (3.3%)

How to Protect Yourself:

• ALWAYS run vehicle history check with Carhealth (£3.99)
• Verify finance settled with proof (settlement letter)
• NEVER skip this check—it's your only protection

Real Example: Mike bought Audi A4 for £9,500. Six weeks later, finance company repossessed—£6,800 outstanding. Mike lost car and £9,500. Seller disappeared. Police advised "civil matter."

Scam 3: Category S/N Write-Off Not Disclosed

The Setup:

• Car looks great, drives well
• Seller doesn't mention any accident history
• You buy for £10,500

The Reality:

• Car is Category S (structural damage repaired)
• Market value for Cat S: £7,500 (30% discount)
• Seller "forgot" to mention (illegal)

Financial Impact: £3,000 overpaid + resale difficulty

How to Protect Yourself:

• Carhealth check reveals write-off history
• Insurance write-off database check essential
• If Cat S/N not disclosed = seller committed fraud

Real Example: Emma bought "pristine" Mercedes C-Class for £16,000. Carhealth check revealed Cat S (front-end collision 2021). True value: £11,200. Emma pursued seller legally, settled for £3,500 compensation after 8 months.

Scam 4: "Selling for a Friend" (Disguised Trader)

The Setup:

• Ad says "private sale" but actually unlicensed trader
• Multiple cars on same phone number
• Meets you in car park "near home"
• Vague about ownership

The Scam:

• They buy high-mileage cars at auction
• Do minimal prep (valet, sometimes clock mileage)
• Sell as "private" to avoid dealer obligations
• Disappear when issues arise

Why It Matters: If they're actually a trader, you have Consumer Rights Act protection—but you need to prove they're trading.

How to Identify:

• Google their phone number (multiple car ads?)
• Check Facebook Marketplace history
• Ask "How long have you owned it?" (vague = red flag)
• Insist on viewing at their home address (traders refuse)

Real Example: John bought "private sale" Golf. Seller met him in Tesco car park. Car developed serious clutch fault (£1,400 repair) after 3 weeks. Investigation revealed seller had 8 cars for sale in last 6 months. John sued as unlicensed trader, won £1,400 in small claims court.

Scam 5: Stolen Car

The Setup:

• Great price, seller urgent to sell
• Meets in neutral location
• V5C logbook present (but fake/cloned)

The Reality:

• Car is stolen, VIN cloned from legitimate vehicle
• Police seize car weeks/months later
• You lose car and money

How Common: ~2,000 cases annually (rare but devastating)

How to Protect Yourself:

• Carhealth check verifies stolen status
• Check VIN matches V5C, number plates, chassis
• Insist on viewing at registered keeper's home address
• If seller refuses home viewing = walk away

What You MUST Check When Buying Privately

Before Even Viewing (Online Checks):

1. Carhealth Vehicle Check (£3.99) - NON-NEGOTIABLE

This reveals:

• ✓ Outstanding finance (repossession risk)
• ✓ Stolen status (lose car + money)
• ✓ Insurance write-offs (Cat S, Cat N, Cat A, Cat B)
• ✓ Mileage discrepancies (clocking detection)
• ✓ Number plate changes (hidden history)
• ✓ Previous keeper count (high turnover = problems)
• ✓ MOT history with AI analysis

Why Essential: This £3.99 check could save you £3,000-£8,000 by revealing deal-breakers BEFORE you waste time viewing or, worse, buying.

2. Free MOT History Check

Visit check-mot.service.gov.uk:

• Check mileage consistency (UK average: 7,500 miles/year)
• Review advisory history (deferred maintenance?)
• Look for MOT failures (recurring issues?)
• Verify current MOT validity

3. Research Market Value

• Check Auto Trader, Motors.co.uk for comparable cars
• If price is "too good to be true" = probably is
• Fair private price: 25-30% below dealer equivalent

4. Google the Phone Number

• Reveals if seller has multiple cars for sale (disguised trader)
• Check Facebook Marketplace, Gumtree, eBay for other ads

During Viewing (Physical Inspection):

Paperwork Check (BEFORE looking at car):

• ✓ V5C logbook (seller MUST be registered keeper)
• ✓ Service history (stamped book or receipts)
• ✓ MOT certificates (verify continuity)
• ✓ Previous MOT advisories addressed?
• ✓ All keys present (2 keys minimum, ideally spare)
• ✓ Owner's manual and service book

Red Flags:

• ❌ Seller not registered keeper ("selling for friend" = suspicious)
• ❌ No service history ("lost it" = walk away)
• ❌ Only one key (expensive to replace, suggests history)
• ❌ Recent V5C issue date (why? previous owner rejected it?)

Visual Inspection:

• Panel gaps even (accident damage check)
• Paint consistent across panels (respray = accident/rust)
• Tire tread even (alignment issues if uneven)
• Tire brands matching (mismatched = cheap replacement)
• Rust check (sills, wheel arches, under boot floor)
• Fluid leaks under car (oil, coolant stains on driveway?)

Interior Wear vs Mileage:

• Steering wheel wear (excessive = high mileage)
• Driver's seat bolster (collapsed = high mileage/abuse)
• Pedal rubbers (worn smooth = 100k+ miles)
• Gear knob wear (pattern visible = genuine low miles)

Under Bonnet:

• Oil level (low = neglect or consumption issue)
• Oil color (black/sludgy = poor maintenance)
• Coolant level and color (brown = head gasket risk)
• Belt condition (cracks = overdue replacement)
• Battery terminals (corrosion = electrical gremlins)

Test Drive (ESSENTIAL - NEVER skip):

• Engine starts easily (no hesitation or smoke)
• Smooth idle (rough = misfires, vacuum leaks)
• Gears select cleanly (crunching = worn synchros)
• No clutch slip (manual: revs rise without acceleration?)
• Brakes feel firm (pulsing = warped discs)
• Straight-line tracking (pulls = alignment/accident damage)
• No warning lights (check engine, ABS, airbag, traction)
• All features work (windows, locks, AC, radio)

Post-Drive:

• Check for new fluid leaks
• Look under car again
• Smell for burning (oil, clutch, brakes)

Professional Pre-Purchase Inspection:

When to Get One:

• Car over £8,000 (risk justifies £150-£250 cost)
• You're not mechanically confident
• Seller's history incomplete
• High-mileage vehicle (80,000+ miles)
• Premium brand (expensive repairs if issues)

What It Covers:

• Compression test (engine health)
• Underside inspection (rust, damage, leaks)
• Diagnostic code scan (hidden faults)
• Brake/suspension wear measurement
• Fluid condition analysis
• Written report with recommendations

Cost: £150-£250 (mobile inspector comes to seller's location)

ROI: One inspection revealing £2,000 head gasket issue = £2,000 saved (minus £200 fee)

Recommended Services:

• AA Vehicle Inspection
• RAC Vehicle Inspection
• Local independent garage (call ahead)

The Private Buying Process (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Find the Car (Online Search)

Best Platforms for Private Sales:

• AutoTrader (filter "private seller")
• Facebook Marketplace (huge selection, but more scammers)
• Gumtree
• eBay Motors (buyer protection if used)

Red Flags in Listings:

• Stock photos (not actual car)
• Minimal description ("good runner, some use")
• No registration number shown (can't check history)
• Price way below market (too good to be true)
• "No timewasters" (aggressive = hiding something?)

Step 2: Initial Contact

Questions to Ask:

• "How long have you owned it?" (short ownership = potential issue)
• "Why are you selling?" (genuine reasons vs vague)
• "Has it had any accidents or bodywork?" (listen for honesty)
• "What work has it needed recently?" (reveals maintenance)
• "Can I view at your home address?" (traders refuse)
• "Do you have full service history?" (no = walk away)
• "Any finance outstanding?" (should be clear "no")

How They Respond Matters:

• Honest, detailed answers = good sign
• Vague, defensive, aggressive = red flag
• Happy to answer everything = transparent seller

Step 3: Run Checks (BEFORE Viewing)

• Carhealth check (£3.99)
• Free MOT history
• Google phone number
• Research market value

If ANY red flags appear = cancel viewing

Step 4: Viewing & Inspection

• Bring friend/family (second opinion, safety)
• Daylight viewing only (spot defects easier)
• Insist on test drive (20+ minutes, motorway if possible)
• Take photos/videos (evidence if issues later)
• Use checklist above

Step 5: Negotiate Price

Private sellers are more flexible:

• "I've noticed X, Y, Z needs doing—can you do £X less?"
• "My budget is £X—can you meet that?" (simple but effective)
• "I'm ready to buy today for £X" (cash buyer = leverage)

Typical Negotiation Room: 5-15% below asking price

Example:

• Listed: £7,500
• You offer: £6,800 ("That's my budget, and I'm cash buyer ready today")
• Seller: £7,200
• You: £7,000 ("Meet in middle?")
• Deal: £7,000 (£500 saved, 6.7% discount)

Step 6: Payment & Collection

NEVER pay until:

• ✓ V5C completed and signed by seller
• ✓ All keys handed over
• ✓ Service history provided
• ✓ You've test driven and inspected

Payment Methods:

• Bank transfer (safest for buyer—traceable)
• Cash (seller preference, but risky carrying large amounts)
• Avoid: PayPal, cheque (fraud risk)

On Collection:

• Complete V5C section (new keeper details)
• Seller signs transfer section
• Get receipt (handwritten OK, include: "Received £X for [reg], sold as seen, [seller signature], [date]")
• Take all documents
• Photo seller's ID (if they agree—evidence if dispute)

Step 7: Post-Purchase Admin

Immediately:

• ✓ Tax the car (DVLA online or Post Office)
• ✓ Insure the car BEFORE driving away
• ✓ Send V5C new keeper section to DVLA
• ✓ Check MOT validity

Within 2 Weeks:

• Service the car (fresh start, peace of mind)
• Address any advisories from last MOT
• Keep all receipts (evidence for future sale)

When Private Buying Goes Wrong: Your Options

Scenario 1: Undisclosed Major Fault

What Happened: Engine fails after 200 miles, £2,500 repair needed.

Your Rights:

• If seller deliberately concealed known fault = fraud (criminal)
• If seller genuinely didn't know = civil claim (harder to prove)

Steps:

1. Get professional diagnosis (written report)
2. Contact seller (polite, factual: "Engine failed, garage says it was pre-existing")
3. Request contribution to repair costs
4. If refused: Send legal letter (template online)
5. Small claims court (if value £10,000 or less)

Reality: Most private sellers disappear or refuse. Legal action costs £100-£500 in fees and takes 6-12 months. Many buyers just accept the loss.

Scenario 2: Outstanding Finance

What Happened: Finance company contacts you demanding £4,000 or repossession.

Your Rights:

• You're innocent party—but finance company has legal claim
• If you did vehicle history check showing "clear" = provider may compensate

Steps:

1. Contact your vehicle history check provider (if check showed clear, they're liable)
2. Report to Action Fraud (police fraud database)
3. Report to Trading Standards
4. Seek legal advice (Citizens Advice)
5. DO NOT pay finance company (not your debt)

Outcome: If your vehicle history check guaranteed finance-clear, they must compensate you. If you didn't do check = you lose car and money.

Scenario 3: Clocked Mileage

What Happened: You discover car has 90,000 miles more than advertised.

Your Rights:

• Mileage misrepresentation = fraud (Sale of Goods Act)
• Seller liable for difference in value

Steps:

1. Gather evidence (MOT history, Carhealth report)
2. Get professional valuation (true value vs paid)
3. Contact seller with evidence
4. Report to Trading Standards (they may prosecute)
5. Report to Action Fraud
6. Small claims court for compensation

Reality: If you have MOT evidence, strong case. But collecting judgment is hard if seller has no assets.

Decision Framework: Should YOU Buy Privately?

Your Situation Assessment:

Answer these questions:

Budget:

• Car under £5,000? (+1 point for private)
• Car £5k-£10k? (0 points—neutral)
• Car over £15k? (-1 point, dealer safer)

Mechanical Knowledge:

• Can identify engine/gearbox issues? (+2 points private)
• Some car knowledge? (+1 point private)
• Zero car knowledge? (-2 points, dealer essential)

Financial Buffer:

• Have £1,500+ emergency fund for repairs? (+1 point private)
• Can afford £500-£1,000 unexpected bills? (0 points)
• No financial buffer? (-2 points, need warranty)

Risk Tolerance:

• Happy to gamble for savings? (+1 point private)
• Want peace of mind? (-1 point, dealer)
• Can't afford any risk? (-2 points, dealer essential)

Time & Effort:

• Happy to spend 6+ hours on checks/inspection? (+1 point private)
• Want quick, easy purchase? (-1 point, dealer)

Score Interpretation:

+4 or higher: Private buying is perfect for you—you're savvy, prepared, and motivated +1 to +3: Private buying viable if you do thorough checks and possibly get inspection -1 to 0: Dealer probably better unless you're willing to learn and take risk -2 or lower: Buy from dealer—risk too high for your situation

Real-World Examples: Private Sales Good & Bad

Success Story 1: Tom's £3,000 Saving

Vehicle: 2017 Honda Civic 1.6 i-DTEC

Dealer Price: £10,500 Private Price: £7,500 Saving: £3,000

Tom's Process:

1. Ran Carhealth check: All clear
2. Checked MOT history: Perfect progression, no major advisories
3. Viewed at seller's home (genuine owner, 4 years ownership)
4. Test drive: 45 minutes, motorway + city
5. Had friend (mechanic) inspect: "Clean car, well-maintained"
6. Negotiated to £7,200
7. Paid via bank transfer, full documentation

Outcome: 18 months later, zero issues. Saved £3,000, car runs perfectly. Tom's total cost including Carhealth check (£3.99) and friend's time (£40 beer money): £7,249. Equivalent dealer car would have been £10,500 (£3,251 saved).

Disaster Story 1: Lisa's £4,500 Loss

Vehicle: 2016 Audi A3 2.0 TDI

Advertised Price: £9,500 (seemed fair) Market Value: £11,500-£12,500

Lisa's Mistakes:

1. ❌ Didn't run vehicle history check ("seemed honest")
2. ❌ Didn't check MOT history
3. ❌ Viewed in car park (not seller's home)
4. ❌ Rushed test drive (10 minutes)
5. ❌ Ignored "service history lost" claim

What Went Wrong:

• Week 1: DPF warning light (£850 repair)
• Week 3: Discovered mileage clocked (67k advertised, actually 142k)
• Week 4: Turbo failure (£2,200 repair)
• Contacted seller: Number disconnected

Total Loss: £9,500 purchase + £3,050 repairs = £12,550 for car worth £6,500 (due to true mileage). Net loss: £6,050.

Lesson: A £3.99 Carhealth check would have revealed clocking. Professional inspection (£200) would have found DPF/turbo issues. Lisa could have saved £5,850 by spending £209 on checks.

Success Story 2: Ahmed's Patience Pays Off

Vehicle: 2018 Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost

Ahmed's Strategy: Wait for the perfect private sale

Viewed: 7 cars over 3 weeks

• Car 1: Clocked mileage (MOT check revealed)
• Car 2: No service history (walked away)
• Car 3: Outstanding finance (Carhealth revealed)
• Car 4: Seller wouldn't allow home viewing (refused)
• Car 5: Rough idle, failed compression test (inspection revealed)
• Car 6: Overpriced, seller inflexible
• Car 7: Perfect

Car 7 Details:

• One owner, full Ford service history
• 32,000 miles, all verified via MOT
• Seller moving abroad (genuine reason)
• Home viewing, friendly and transparent
• Professional inspection: "Excellent condition"

Price Paid: £6,800 (dealer equivalent: £9,200) Saving: £2,400

Outcome: 2 years later, zero issues. Ahmed spent ~£300 total on checks/inspections across all viewings, saved £2,100 net.

Conclusion

Should you buy privately? It depends entirely on your situation, knowledge, and risk tolerance.

Private buying is EXCELLENT for:

• Mechanically savvy buyers who can spot issues
• Budget-conscious buyers wanting maximum value
• Patient buyers willing to wait for the right car
• Buyers with £1,000+ repair buffer
• Those willing to invest time in thorough checks

Private buying is TERRIBLE for:

• First-time buyers with no car knowledge
• Anyone who can't afford unexpected repairs
• Buyers wanting peace of mind and protection
• Those needing finance (HP/PCP)
• Anyone unwilling to do comprehensive checks

The Golden Rules:

1. ALWAYS run Carhealth check (£3.99 could save £3,000+)
2. Check free MOT history (clocking detection)
3. View at seller's home (verification + safety)
4. Test drive 30+ minutes (find hidden issues)
5. Get inspection for cars over £8,000 (£200 protects £10,000+ investment)
6. Never skip service history (no history = walk away)
7. Budget £500-£1,000 for post-purchase repairs (private cars need TLC)
8. Trust your gut (if it feels wrong, it probably is)

A well-chosen private purchase can save you £2,000-£4,000 with minimal risk. A poorly-chosen one can cost you £3,000-£8,000 in undisclosed faults, clocking, or fraud.

The choice is yours—but now you're armed with the knowledge to make it wisely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is it safe to buy a car privately? A: Yes, IF you do proper checks. Run Carhealth report (£3.99), check MOT history, view at seller's home, test drive thoroughly, and get inspection for cars over £8,000. Avoid if seller refuses home viewing or has no service history.

Q: How much cheaper is buying privately? A: Typically 25-30% cheaper than dealer equivalent. On a £10,000 car, expect to save £2,500-£3,000. But factor in no warranty and potential repair costs.

Q: What are my rights when buying privately? A: Minimal. Car must be "as described" and belong to seller (not stolen, no finance). But NO warranty, NO return rights, NO Consumer Rights Act protection. Seller must not lie, but proving they did is extremely difficult.

Q: Should I buy privately if it's my first car? A: NO. First-time buyers should buy from reputable dealer. Private buying requires mechanical knowledge and risk tolerance that first-timers rarely have. The £2,500 saving isn't worth £4,000+ in hidden repairs.

Q: What checks are essential before buying privately? A: (1) Carhealth vehicle history check (£3.99) - outstanding finance, stolen, write-offs, clocking. (2) Free MOT history check. (3) Test drive 30+ minutes. (4) Pre-purchase inspection for cars over £8,000 (£150-£250).

Q: Can I get finance for a private car purchase? A: Yes, via personal loan from bank/credit union, but NOT via HP/PCP (dealer-only products). Personal loan rates typically 6-12% APR. You own car outright from day one.

Q: What if the car breaks down after I buy it privately? A: You're responsible for all repairs. Private sales are "as seen" with no warranty. If seller deliberately lied about known fault, you can sue—but proving it and collecting judgment is difficult and time-consuming.

Q: How can I avoid clocked mileage? A: Check MOT history at check-mot.service.gov.uk (free). Run Carhealth check with AI clocking detection. Inspect pedals, steering wheel, and seats for wear consistent with mileage. Any discrepancy = walk away immediately.

Q: Is it better to buy privately or from an independent dealer? A: Depends on budget and risk tolerance. Private = 25% cheaper but zero protection. Independent dealer = more expensive but Consumer Rights Act protection, warranty, return rights. For cars over £10,000, dealer safer.

Q: What's the biggest risk of buying privately? A: Outstanding finance (finance company can repossess from you) and clocked mileage (you overpay by £2,000-£5,000). Both prevented by £3.99 Carhealth check. NEVER skip this check.